Athletics and Recreation

Building a Viking House with Hand Tools: A Bushcraft Project (PART 1)

Building a Viking House with Hand Tools: A Bushcraft Project (PART 1)


Reader Comments

  1. Anyone know if the foundation cedar logs are freshly felled trees or were they cut down previously and left to dry for a time?

  2. Man, the hammering sound and some parts of the video can be an opening for a thriller movie. Btw nice job guys.

  3. this is way better than those HGTV produced shows with tons of yacking and forced humor/drama. Amazing video!

  4. Ребзя! На сколько я знаю по археологи викинги в походах делали свои дома из дерна. Вырезали платы дерна и укладывали как кирпичную кладку, крышей же служили лодьи (драккары). Данная технология не такая трудоемкая как ваша и быстрая. Что экономит и силы и время. А качество стен из дерна, по теплоодтаче просто супер.

  5. Nice video. Description is in error. Shou-sugi ban is a brand name. Flame hardening and preservation is ancient, and crosses all cultures it does not, did not originate with modern humans and predates homo sapiens, native americans used it, europeans used it, ect, however the Japanese used burnt wood as an external home cladding for weatherproofing above ground as a means of architecture, and that's kinda unique to them. The burnt cedar cladding, sometimes sold by the brand name Shou-Sugi Ban is called YakiSugi meaning burnt cedar

  6. I love the video, but I fear you guys are taking a massive risk using that axe, backwards, as a hammer. Not because you might nick yourselves, but because someone with less dexterity might see this and try to emulate it. I realize that's not on you, but there are a lot of lawyers who would be happy to try to prove otherwise, if someone hurts themselves. I'd hate to see you guys get screwed, when all you're doing is sharing some priceless knowledge.

  7. Watched this whole series! Amazing work! Got a new subscriber out of it lol. My one burning question is what breed is your dog? She is gorgeous!

  8. why didn't you make a maul hammer for driving stakes in? It hurt my brain seeing you dribe stakes with the axe.

    big log little log big hammer!

  9. As far as historically correct goes, I've seen a number of old log houses.
    The notches in the corners are cut as double V-s, at about 45 degree angle. Probably because they used an axe not a saw, but I guess it helps reduce leakage and draft too.
    I believe they had saws, but not the proper steel or hardening technique so it was a rather dull experience until fairly recent times. So they mostly relied on their axes.

  10. The only comment I could make, other than bravo Dad and good on ya lads for working for a dwelling, I love these style projects.  Firstly, however, the Japanese are not the only prehistoric people to utilize fire to harden dry and preserve wood as Neanderthals made their spears in that fashion along with lots of repeat rub and burn.  That bit was just for historical ba-blathering.  I use this technique quite often for a variety of deep driven stakes or even for underside of log to earth setting, with one clear difference. 

    You may find the difference well off for future projects, and that is, to have a large (depending on size of logs) bucket of sand on site.  While the logs are still have the embers on thrust the fire end into the sand as deep as possible and then twist for a few minutes with slight downward pressure.  Real hard downward thrust and then a few minutes of downward twist.  I repeat the burn and sand a few times for longer period stays.  This quickly hardens and preserves the wood well.  I also like to rub local clay with a good amount of force using a flattened piece of wood of the same variety as the build on lastly to help add a layer of seal from earthy events.

    The foundation seems interesting, I would prefer using same size as possible logs in width about and also cutting a trough about a 1/4 depth down,  Once the logs are then in place using a weighted log or long hammer to work along it's length to hammer down and compress the earth below until I hit about full length 1/3rd down.  Pop it out, burn the underside which does take time even with two people and then give it a hard rub with sand, repeat one more time and then rub clay (local fresh is best) on the full length and ends of the half down side.  Give it a good slather of clay and then press and hammer it down to place for a good fit snug and hug like.

    The last thing I can add, to make things a little easier when using guide posts.  The posts should be two logs higher in length at least for the last log laid into it.  You guys have a pretty decent height if only using those two logs down atop.  However, you should drive the temporary stakes in at a slight angle, every so slight, both inside and outside bottoms to form a very narrow tall V shape.  Find the spot that is two logs higher to three logs higher then where you wish to work the next log in.  Using a length of rope tie using a cross figure eight cross loop going up making sure to use about 6 center crosses and keeping those subsequent six or seven wrap rises even, so the gap between then is pulling the post tops at that point the same width apart as to stake ends thrust into the ground.  Then catty slide one end and hammer back the other end on short, or lift and guide thread the log through the posts below the crosses.  Even when I build notch hold versus just long pole hold I prefer to use the rope tie method as a guide and stabilizer with sliding not dropping.  For one it frees the second man free for lifting, and if alone allows for much better control and balance and thus a more even and solid  rise on the layered log walls.

    If you are building up quite high  (thus have already started with deeper more permanent posts) make sure to do a good raw twine bind between posts every few (for large) to several (for medium to slender) logs up.  As you come higher, again for permanent and not just lay out posts, before you remove the cross eight bind guide and brace tie, make sure to tie the next cross eight above before loosening and at the same width apart again as the penetration width at the ground level.  This will stop slips or pops side to side or up and down when the 'working eight' is removed. 

    A note on the burn sand and clay.  It would be better to do the whole ground log, and with the posts I like to go as much as 16 inches above the ground level.  I also prefer at least that depth below, so the bottom 32 inches ""At Least" so better assure the least amount of potential rot over time as water levels are rarely predictable steady even in the desert.

    Hope that was not to much.

    GSW.

  11. Psychologically your videos are great for young men who are constantly demonised today, and as a woman who loves history I'm learning too xx

  12. I will be building a cabin by the shore this summer. Already cleared the lot and cut some of the logs. Interesting build. Thanks for sharing.

  13. ive found that cutting notches are simplified by only using a axe or hatchet don't get me wrong it takes some practice but with practice you can notch faster than you did the sawing but then again when I was learning I only had an axe,tomahawk and a small pocket knife but I really like what you guys are doin this is great

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